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I've inserted a 3/4" dowel round in the trailing edge to hold it open. This is why I did not rivet the last couple holes in the top and bottom rib. I then scuffed up the area of the skin that will contact the wedge and then cleaned everything with MEK. 8/16/06
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This is the Fuel Tank Sealant I used to glue the trailing edge wedge in place. I purchased the 3.5 oz. tube and ended up wasting probably 3 oz. of it. Do your self a favor and order the 1 oz. tube and save the money. 8/16/06
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I didnt get any pictures of applying the sealant but it wasnt that bad. I just dabbed a spot between each hole and then used my gloved finger to smear the sealant all over the wedge. Once the wedge was completely covered I placed the wedge on the lower skin. I then pulled the dowel rod out and let the top skin lay down on to the wedge. Next I used my hands and squeezed the skins together. Once it looked nice and tight I clecoed the angle to the skins. Each cleco was dunked in Boelube before being used to keep the sealant from sticking to them. Now I will let this cure for a few days. 8/16/06
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After sitting a few days the sealant had fully cured so I removed the angle and placed a cleco in every hole. I then followed the direction on riveting the trailing edge. I partially set one rivet in the middle and partially set one on each end. I then set one in between those and so on until every rivet was partially set. I then hand bucked each rivet in the same manner until every rivet was set. 8/19/06
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Here you can see the final result. This is the bucked side of the trailing edge. You can compare the lower rivet to see the difference between a factory head in a dimple and a bucked head in a dimple. These turned out very nice. 8/19/06
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Now I've got to finish riveting the top R-903 and bottom R-904 ribs. First I taped up everything. 8/25/06
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Next I grinded the sharp point off of a cold chisel and duct taped it to a back plate. Make sure you leave room for it to pivot. I placed a pencil under the rear before I taped it and then just pulled the pencil out. 8/25/06
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I slid the skin in until the chisel hit the rib and then pulled it back just a bit to keep it from touching and scratching the rib. Then I cranked my pressure up just a little bit and started to rivet. 8/25/06
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I used the LP4-3 pull rivets to rivet the R-405PD rudder horn to the R-710 horn brace. These rivets will not be seen once the lower fiberglass rudder tip is installed. 8/25/06
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I used a 1" wood dowel to roll the leading edges. I placed duct tape on the skin and rolled the dowel rod until it came in contact with the spar. I used a quick grip to hold the dowel down to the table. I then flipped the rudder over and repeated it on the other side. 8/25/06
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Here I'm rolling the next section. 8/25/06
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You can see the 1" dowel rod leaves a nice round bend. 8/25/06
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The other side was rolled and here both sides are clecoed together. 8/25/06
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Here you can see the shape. 8/25/06
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Before I rolled the leading edges I used my vice grip edge roller on the overlapping skin. Here you can see how nice the edge is after its rolled. 8/25/06
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A close up of the overlapping edge. 8/25/06
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Now I'm rolling the lower edges. The larger quick grip was very nice. The smaller one had to be repositioned several times. 8/25/06
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Both edges are now rolled. You can see how far a part these edges are after there rolled. I used duct tape to pull the edges together. 8/25/06
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Here the lower edges are clecoed. I then match drilled each hole, removed all clecos, deburred the holes and then reclecoed the edges back together. 8/25/06
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AD-41-ABS pull rivets where used to attach the edges permanently. 8/25/06
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Rudder is done for now. I'll work on the fiberglass tips later. 8/25/06
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